Tired...

Everyone who has ever traveled for long periods of time knows this: sometimes you just get tired. Traveling is great, possibly the greatest thing in the world, but it takes a lot out of you...

Usually, it takes longer than a month though... but maybe it's because I was already exhausted after Africa. 

I'm leaving Nepal tomorrow, and that makes me a little sad. I really like Nepal! But for the first time in my life, I am actually happy that it's an organized tour and for the next 7 days, I don't have to think much... (the only way to go to Tibet is with an organized tour, otherwise I would never actually book a tour, tired or not!) 

Anyway... After Tibet I have a few days in Chengdu, China, then flying to Bangkok... the familiar and happy bustle of Khao San Road, and soon thereafter, the amazing tranquility of diving. 

I'm definitely looking forward to that... :) 

I leave you with a picture of Durbar Square, Kathmandu, and its massive population of pigeons... 

Annapurna Trek -- Nepal

Hi folks... Sorry for the lack of news the last couple of weeks... 

I made it to Pokhara under torrential rain almost 2 weeks ago, and didn't think that rain at low altitude meant snow, and a lot of it, at high altitudes. 

I met a German girl who wanted to go trekking, so we got our permits and planned to leave on Thursday. Then the news started showing that a lot of people got trapped under avalanches, or lost their way in the snow, exactly where I was going, the Annapurna Circuit trek. 

I hesitated. 

But let me put this into perspective for you guys: I first heard about the Annapurna Mountains 11 years ago, in a magazine. I fell in love instantly and started planning the trip in my head. I even emailed a friend who traveled a lot, and asked if he knew about it and wanted to go. He actually replied with a picture of himself at Thorong La, the pass at 5,416m which you have to cross on this trek. He'd already done it. He encouraged me to go. 

Then, 8 years ago, I came to Nepal for the first time. It was January and I only had 9 days, so it was impossible to do the trek. I went to Pokhara anyway, because I wanted to at least see the mountains. But they were hiding behind a thick curtain of clouds and I didn't get even a glimpse of them... 

(View from lakeside in Pokhara with the mountains in the background)

Now, I planned my trip perfectly. The weather is supposed to be perfect this time of year, crystal clear skies, sunshine, no snow. But a typhoon in India messed everything up and created a storm up here. Last I heard, 39 confirmed dead and about 100 missing... http://edition.cnn.com/2014/10/18/world/asia/nepal-snowstorm/

But the weather cleared, and I decided to go, at least as far as possible. I had been waiting for this for too long... Got an experienced Nepali guide (just in case) and went. 

So we took a bus to Besi Sahar, where the trail starts. I could see the mountains getting closer and closer... 

(Lunch spot at Chamche, beginning of the trail).

We hiked 4 days up through the mountains, for a total of about 80km and an altitude of 4,000 meters. 

The views from the trail were incredible, the pictures really don't do it justice... Every day, getting closer and closer... 

And then, on a beautiful, sunny day, you hear a noise that sounds like thunder, and you look at the mountain in front of you and watch an avalanche.. (The cloud-like thing in the middle of the picture is actually snow coming down...) 

Then you have to actually climb over an avalanche, and wonder if there's anybody trapped underneath it... We saw rescue helicopters all day, every day... 

(All 3 of us, Larissa - my German trekking buddy, Iman- our Nepali guide, and I, on the upper trail from Pisang to Manang)

We finally got to Manang (3,540m), and were told that the pass at Thorong La (5,416 m) was still closed. We took a "rest day" and only climbed up to a monastery at 4,000m. (If you think 400m is not much, think of climbing the steps all the way to the top of the twin towers in NYC... They were 417m tall...) 

That's me at Praken Gompa, at 4,000 meters, with Annapurna II in the background, standing at 7,973m. The view from up there is just breath-taking... We just sat for a while, and admired the beauty and majesty of those mountains. 

It was a great place to meditate a while, and think about Chad... There were a few things still weighing heavy on my heart, but I think I made peace with it now... 

Walking up and down a mountain gives you a lot of time to think... 

The next day they reopened the pass, but said there was still a lot of snow on the top, and specially on the other side where you have a 1,600m *descent* and no sunshine... Slippery, icy, windy and potentially dangerous. 

I waited 11 years to come here. I really wanted to go over that pass and down the other side... but I wanted to make it *alive* and not stay permanently in Nepal, buried in the snow for some unsuspecting trekker to find next year when the snow melts... 

So we decided to come back down the way we came... that's 80km down the mountain again. We walked 160km in 7 days (4 up, 3 down). But not over the pass, which only means I'll have to come back to Nepal! :) 

Lunch spot with a view, already far down, somewhere just above Dhorepani... 

And today, back in Pokhara, with a beautiful sunset over Phewa Tal... 

Alive and well, with more muscle in my legs than ever before. A little tired, a little sad (I really wanted to make it over that pass!!), but alive. Happy. In peace. 

I think that's all I can ask for... 

Two places at once...

"When you travel far, give your soul time to arrive." African Proverb

My soul is confused. I think it stayed in Chad. My body was torn from Chad, from a place where my emotions were tried every single day, where electricity was only by generator (which sometimes didn't work) and cold water, "supermarkets" with only the bare minimum, and most importantly: sick people that needed me-- to Paris-- arguably the height of civilization, with abundant food, wifi, hot showers, starbucks coffee and chocolate-- to Kathmandu-- a magical place, that somehow confers peace just by being here. 

Nepal is wonderful, this is my second visit, and I am incredibly happy to be here. 

But my soul is confused. 3 days ago I was working in a hospital in Chad. How did I get here? And those 14hrs in Paris, was that a dream? Did that really happen? That was a giant culture shock...

I miss Chad. It's weird, I know. It'll take me a while to let go. I asked for news, and Dr. Scott told me that Blaise and Gombo are doing "really well" and another of my patients also got discharged. 

I will enjoy the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu for another couple of days, before heading to Pokkhara and the Annapurna Mountains. 

I hope my soul have arrived by then... 

Bitter-sweet

You know you did something right when every single one of your patients tells you they don't want you to leave... :) I went around this afternoon and took pictures with them and with the staff. I'll post some later... 

I'm a little sad, but 4 of my patients have been discharged and Dr. Scott said Fatimah will probably get discharged Wednesday. That makes 5 of my patients discharged. The two I fought hard for (Blaise and Gombo) are doing much better, and there's only one who is still in danger of losing her leg (2 year old baby girl!!) but she has osteomyelitis and there's not a whole lot I can do for her anyway... :( 

Tomorrow I take a bus back to N'Djamena and tomorrow night, a plane to Paris. Then I'll spend 12hrs in Paris, stuffing my face with croissants and stinky cheese, then get on another plane to Nepal. 

Tuesday: Tchad

Wednesday: France

Thursday: Nepal

3 continents in 3 days. That's a record for me! :) I'm excited about the next phase of my trip. It'll be fun! :) And I am at peace with my decision to leave. 

Ecclesiastes 3:1 "For everything there is a season, and a time for every purpose under heaven."